Italy. I mean, wow. It’s a challenge summing up two weeks in this incredible country without rambling on and on. The cities, the countryside, the people, obviously the food and wine, all warrant their own posts. However, I’ll try to highlight the most memorable aspects of our trip and encourage those who haven’t experienced this amazing place to really consider visiting at some point in their lives.
Our trip began early. 3:45am early, with a 4:15am taxi scheduled, and last minute packing to finish. A 6:50am flight to save money seems easy enough, but leaving the warmth of your bed at that time is surprisingly difficult. After enjoying a delicious proper breakfast at the Dublin airport, we boarded the sardine can with propellers that was our plane, heading for our brief interlude at the very charming Bristol airport, and then off to Venice.
As soon as we arrived in Venice, we immediately became excited about the start of our adventure. Embarking on a water taxi towards our Airbnb we knew we were in for a special few days. One piece of advice for traveling in Italy, or anywhere really, is to ask the locals what to see and where to eat. Our host gave us several recommendations for where to eat, helping us avoid the tourist traps and prices.
Venice is one of the most unique cities to visit. With its winding alleyways that contract and expand, that seem to terminate then abruptly turn right or left, and which amazingly accommodate two-way foot traffic. The serpentine, turquoise canals alive with the sounds of motor boats and the light skulling of the gondoliers. The many bridges to cross, with the shop lined walkway of the Rialto Bridge being very impressive. The Pizza San Marco, flanked by the breathtaking Basilica di San Marco and the extravagant Doge’s Palace. I imagine the word palatial was coined to compare every palace to this gorgeous example. Venice is a beautiful city, however, in winter it is absolutely freezing. A Christmas Day walking tour lead to Kim making me buy my first scarf. Admittedly, during our stay in Venice we casually browsed shops during our walks, especially those that had the heat running on high. The food without question was an incredible introductory course for our trip, starting with a pizza that was life changing at Rosso Pomodoro. A lovely Christmas Day lunch at Lanterna da Gas capped our gastronomic tour of Venice, with its comfortable atmosphere, fantastic dishes, and warmth. Venice was wonderful, but we had much more to see.
After Venice, we took a short train ride to Florence, seeing stunning views of thick fog along the way. Luckily for us we brought books to read to pass the time. After getting situated in Florence, we basked in the glow of the sun. After living in Ireland for two months during winter, this was necessary and we took full, gluttonous advantage. To me it seemed as if the sun were illuminating for us the epicenter of the Renaissance.
With only two days to spend in Florence, we had a lot to see in a short period of time. We first explored the city, seeing the famous Ponte Vecchio bridge, and ending with a hike to the top of Piazzale Michelangelo that gave us panoramic views of Florence. After taking in the sights, we toured the Uffizi museum, seeing some of the most famous Renaissance artworks. The following day, our first destination was to see The David. Pictures do not do this remarkable sculpture justice, and it is one of those moments that you remember for a lifetime. We made a slight detour to Gusta Osteria to indulge in what Kim described as the best lasagna she had ever eaten during her first visit to Florence. If I’m being honest, she wasn’t kidding, and it was amazing, although I’d say my wild boar pasta was a serious contender. Finally, we journeyed to the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Florence Duomo. This immense cathedral was stunning, for its size, sculptures, and frescoes adorning the dome inside. Florence was truly moving, but surprisingly unsurprisingly crowded. After a last minute car cancellation and last minute booked train tickets, we traveled to the more relaxed Tuscany region outside of Florence.
Upon arrival in Siena, we had to navigate the bus system to our destination in Quercegrossa. Google Maps are very useful for transit information, but not always reliable. After asking the locals, whose help and genuine kindness were greatly appreciated, we were able to reach our accommodations for our two night stay. The bus ride there was an adventure itself, careening through the winding Tuscan roads. I suspect the “bus stop” in front of our hotel wasn’t a stop at all. However, we really appreciated the driver dropping us off so close.
Quercegrossa proper was a very quaint, sleepy town, situated about one mile away from where we were staying. Due to an early train ride and unexpected walk, we built up a real hunger, and found that many eateries were closed for the holidays. Luckily, we found a grocery store with a very nice clerk who could tell we were famished and helped us decide what to eat. After finishing our meal, we boarded another bus, hilariously with the same driver as before, and explored the small town of Fonterutoli. There, we went to Inoteca di Fonterutoli winery and received a great Siena restaurant recommendation from a fellow touring couple.
The following day we explored Siena, beginning with the Piazza del Campo. Two days each summer, a horse race occurs in this tiny square that is packed with spectators. It is definitely something I feel is worth returning for, but forget about personal space. Leaving the Piazza, we walked through the narrow streets to the Duomo di Siena and were not disappointed. This duomo was smaller than the duomo in Florence and the Basilica di San Marco. However, the grandeur was not lost, and the detail of the work inside was awe inspiring. There is a small library attached to the duomo, and us bibliophiles absolutely nerded out inside of it. Peeling ourselves away from the library, we decided to locate the restaurant that was recommended to us the previous day. Antica Tratorria Papei, located behind the Piazza del Campo and with a view of the Torre del Mangia, was one of my favorite dining experiences we had. It was extremely affordable for the quality and amount of food you receive. Kim ordered the gnocchi and my pasta with rabbit gravy was excellent. I distinctly remember Kim admitting she could just, “drink the sauce.” I couldn’t agree more. We had nice company sitting next to us, whose conversation made the experience even better.
Our quiet stay in Quercegrossa and Siena was a nice break from the busy cities of Venice and Florence. We wanted to continue this relaxation before our final destination of Rome, so we boarded another train to reach our next stay in Meta, near the Amalfi Coast.
When we arrived at the Naples train station, I learned that I may have a mild case of claustrophobia. I’ve been to a limited number of train stations in my life, but Naples appeared to be overwhelmingly busy. We had to navigate this ant colony in order to board the Circumvesuviana, the local train that would take us to Meta. For lack of a better word, the Circumvesuviana was an experience. At times, we were traveling at what seemed like ludicrous speed, packed like cattle, hoping this creaky, antiquated locomotive made it to our stop. With only a hand full of heart palpitations, we made it.
Meta was another quiet, charming town right on the ocean. We stayed in a delightful room five minutes from the beach. The walk to the beach was down stairs that meandered along the sheer cliff, but worth the undertaking. To begin our New Years Eve, we hopped on the train and explored Pompeii. Pompeii was extraordinary and a destination we both had longed to see. It is more expansive than either of us had imagined and was truly a metropolis at the height of its time. What amazed us most is that buildings lining the streets we walked, some easily twenty feet tall, we completely buried in ash and soot after the eruption of Vesuvius. It’s a remarkable archaeological site and definitely worth visiting.
After Pompeii, we again careened down the train track, getting off in Sorrento in search of lunch and limoncello. Sorrento was a busy town, even in Winter. With its shops, restaurants, bars, and clubs, Sorrento has something for everyone, and was bustling on New Years Eve. A near comatose inducing calzone and limoncello recharged our spirits. We then set off on a bus to Positano for an afternoon trip to the Amalfi Coast. The best way to describe the bus ride along the coastal road was white-knuckled. Kim was seated next to the window, and at times I felt I needed to latch onto her because the sheer cliff next to the bus was terrifying. A shaky legged early exit from the bus afforded wonderful views of Positano. Walking along the road, the view of the town was mesmerizing, and it’s amazing these structures were able to be built in the positions that they were.
For those individuals that decide to visit Positano by bus, visit early and leave early on the return bus. Positano was the first stop for the bus on the Amalfi Coast, with its last in Ravello. This meant that Positano was the last stop before returning to Sorrento. We, along with thirty other individuals, were returning to Sorrento. Once the bus arrived, many of the individuals crowded onto the bus, causing the driver to shut it off and exit the vehicle. After the driver enjoyed a calming cigarette and a placed a quick phone call, the police arrived and restored order. We happily decided to wait for the next bus. Unfortunately, the next bus was overcrowded and didn’t stop for us. At this point it was already dark, and there was one final bus for the evening running. A curiously short cab ride serendipitously brought us to the rear of the final bus. Our driver stopped the vehicle, got out and raced to speak with the bus driver. Needles to say, miraculously we caught the last bus back to Sorrento. Unlucky for us, the train to Meta had already ceased running so we enjoyed a cold and cranky walk back to our room.
Due to the previous evening’s fiasco, we decided to spend our New Years Day relaxing on the beach in Meta. It was a great decision, and allowed us to bask in the sun once again before embarking on the final leg of our journey to Rome.
We boarded our final train and landed in Rome in the early afternoon. It was the culmination of a fantastic two week expedition in Italy. Rome is a timeless city, and as rich with history as you can possibly imagine. Our first evening was spent relaxing before undertaking a whirlwind tour of the city. Upon getting settled at the room we were staying in, our host brought us to a local restaurant and joined us for a glass of wine. Ristorante di Musei was a wonderful establishment. We knew it would be a great place for our first meal in Rome because of how crowded and loud it was. Our host may, or may not have, gotten us seated before others that were already there. Truth be told, he knew the owner, so I’m apologizing to those who we cut in line. However, it was a fabulous meal.
The following morning, we began our day early with a visit of the Roman Colosseum and the Roman Forum. The colosseum is a marvel that pictures don’t do justice. The size, intricacy of design, and the fact that it is still standing after nearly two thousand years, is absolutely remarkable. I imagine being in this structure during its glory days, watching the, although morbid, games, would have been stunning. As we walked around the thought of standing in a place of history really sunk in. We exited the colosseum and went to view the Roman Forum. We luckily had the Rick Steves Forum tour downloaded on Kim’s phone, which made our stroll through the Forum even better. Following the Forum, we casually walked through the streets enjoying the sunny weather, and wandered towards more attractions. We found ourselves famished standing outside the Pantheon, another incredible structure that is amazingly still standing after so long. Peering up at the ceiling, seeing the fontanel shining down, left us in awe. However, as I said we were both starving, we left hastily in search of sustenance. Luckily, Antica Salumeria had cheap, delicious paninis and a delectable canoli for us to devour. After the Pantheon, we did more wandering to the Trevi Fountain, making a wish to return to Rome one day.
The following day, with very sore feet and legs, we decided to take a walking tour through the Vatican City. We slowly made our way through the hallways viewing the Vatican Museum’s paintings, tapestries, sculptures, and arrived in the frescoed rooms of the Vatican. Being able to view these simple in size, but opulently decorated rooms was worth the claustrophobic feeling of being surrounded by other tourists. Continuing on our tour, we walked into the Sistine Chapel, and were allowed 15 minutes to view, as security frequently spoke calmly yet firmly, “silencio,” this gloriously painted wonder. Craning our necks to see the famous ceiling, the frescoe walls by other masters of the Renaissance, it is hard to describe in words the beauty of this chapel. I was personally awed by Michelangelo’s, “Last Judgement,” a fresco that spanned an entire wall. Although it was crowded, we grudgingly left the chapel, however, our final stop on the tour was St. Peter’s Basilica. Seeing the works of Botticcelli, the tombs and sculptures of popes, and the immense dome was magical. It was a wonderful tour that was very informative and worthwhile.
Our final day in Rome was spent lazily walking through the streets and avoiding the major crowds throughout the city. It evolved from a nice walk, to an impromptu food and wine tour of Trastevere, a lovely little area of Rome. We enjoyed great wine, a fantastic lunch, had our final gelato fix, and we were surprised to see a pyramid along the way. Something I’ve failed to mention is that Kim tried pistachio gelato for the first time in Venice, and I’m afraid I created a lifelong obsession, because that was the only flavor we ate throughout the trip. To be honest, I wasn’t complaining, because that is my favorite flavor too. As we made our way back to retrieve our bags, we had a nice happy hour cocktail at a rooftop bar with gorgeous views of Rome and the Vatican City. We were surprised to have our final meal at a tap room along the way. We eventually retrieved our bags to head to the airport. A slight fiasco ensued when we got to the main train station to take a bus to the airport. To make a short story even shorter, we couldn’t find the bus and luckily found 2 other travelers in the same situation to split a taxi with to the airport. Needless to say, we made it to the airport and arrived back in Dublin shortly thereafter.
Italy is an amazing country with so much to see and so much to indulge in. The history, the people, the food and wine, the landscapes, were all things to be remembered for a lifetime. It was honestly more fun and spectacular than I could have imagined. It is definitely a country that we would love to return to, and I have a very good feeling that one day we will.